Westerly Sun Column | In Defense of Brunch
June 05, 2023
If you happened to read the library’s column a couple of weeks ago, I offer my deepest apologies. When I heard that my colleague wanted to write a column about brunch, I emphatically agreed. I envisioned a love letter of sorts to the best meal there is, an ode to eggs, a tribute to French toast. Instead, I read what can only be described as the ravings of a lunatic, nearly 400 words attempting to discredit the most iconic pairing since Lucy and Ricky. Or perhaps, since peanut butter and jelly (which I also adore).
I believe said colleague referred to brunch as “a glorified breakfast with alcohol”. As though this is a BAD thing? With brunch, all things are possible! Have a hankering for chicken with your waffles, or eggs shaped like a pie? You’ve got it! Perhaps a bit of bubbly cleverly disguised as orange juice to wake you up? There’s no judgement! It’s a beautiful meal, full of delicious possibilities that, quite frankly, should not just be served on Sundays, but during all hours of every day. And with that, I guess we should talk about the library for a second.
I was surprised – but thrilled – to find a small selection of cookbooks devoted exclusively to the wonders of brunch. “Brunch @ Bobby's: 140 Recipes for the Best Part of the Weekend”, by celebrity chef and restaurateur Bobby Flay, is a mouthwatering collection to get you started. Flay takes many of the basics that we all (ahem, most) know and love, but elevates them: buttermilk pancakes, but with “Bourbon Molasses Butter” on top, or steak and eggs, made with a mole (a Mexican chocolate-based sauce) rub. The recipes look delicious, and I bookmarked a few for future use!
David Burtka’s “Life is a Party” includes chapters devoted to brunch in different seasons, such as the spring-inspired “Greek Frittata with Ramps and Chickpeas”, or “Poached Salmon with Winter Greens and Persimmon”. Burtka believes that every day is a party, and his book includes tips to help you plan outlandish parties or intimate get-togethers at home. Are “Brunch Parties” a thing yet? Now’s the time to start.
As I was thumbing through all of these cookbooks, I came across a number of delicious looking recipes that I had never heard of before, like “Eggs Sardou” (poached eggs with artichoke hearts, spinach, and hollandaise) and “Beef Grillades with Cheesy Fresh Corn and Sweet Onion Grits”. Nearly all of these, it turned out, were recipes that originated in New Orleans! If you want some NOLA-inspired dishes at home, check out “Buttermilk & Bourbon: New Orleans Recipes with a Modern Flair” by Jason Santos or “Treme: Stories and Recipes from the Heart of New Orleans” by Lolis Eric Elie. In it, Elie even pays tribute to Madame Bégué, a New Orleans native who some believe invented brunch. It’s all adding up!
Stay tuned for the next in our food series: The Glories of Brinner (breakfast for dinner). I’m kidding. Maybe.
By Cassie Skobrak, Adult Services Librarian